I have really enjoyed paddling some of the iconic mountain lakes in the Rockies and each year try to get out and paddle at least one of these beauties. I’ve been out on Bow Lake and Moraine Lake which both offer some jaw dropping views. There are plenty of others in the Banff and Kananaskis areas that are beautiful paddles.
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Hector Lake has always intrigued me as I have driven past it and noticed the enticing thin turquoise ribbon of water just over the tree tops to the west as one travels north along highway 93N on the Icefield Parkway heading toward Jasper.
The Canadian Rockies are beautiful country to explore but glacial fed Hector Lake seemed like it was a bit off the beaten path to get a 14.5’ touring kayak into for a mountain lake paddle. How wrong I was!
Simon Coward, owner of AQ Outdoors & Aquabatics, suggested this paddle location. The idea of by passing other closer road access paddle locations, to venture down a 2.5 km questionable infrequently travelled trail with kayaks in tow to paddle in this more remote location was definitely the kind of trip I was looking for.
After coordinating our schedules we set a date late in August and planned to get a super early start and experience Hector Lake. We arrived at the poorly marked pullout 18 km north on the Icefield Parkway 93N which is not easily spotted from the highway.
If you’re planning a trip to Hector Lake, it may be advisable to visit Paddling Maps (Paddling Spots in Alberta) or stop at the Park Visitor Centre in Lake Louise for some info. In addition to paddling on this beautiful turquoise water, our plan was to walk around the corner of the north end of the lake and have a look at the hanging glacier and a waterfall tumbling off the Waputik Mountain Range that reaches down to the west side of the lake.
Hector Lake gets its name from a Sir James Hector, a Scottish-New Zealand surgeon, naturalist and geologist who was part of the Palliser Expedition (1857-1860), the first detailed scientific exploration of Western Canada. Hector Lake is one of the larger natural glacial fed lakes in the Banff National Park. It is 5.23 sq km (almost 7 times larger than Lake Louise and 1.6 times bigger than Bow Lake). It is the second lake downstream on the Bow River from its headwaters, the Bow Glacier.
On this beauty of a day, we readied our gear at the trailhead, strapped our kayaks onto two distinctly different boat carts, and headed down the trail anxious to dip a paddle in the lake. The trip is a relatively easy hike without kayaks and is approximately 5 km round trip. It is best done in mid to late summer when water flows on the Bow River are lower as you have to complete a river crossing to get to the lake.
Earlier in the season the river levels are quite high, swift, and the water is very cold given that it’s fresh off the glaciers nearby. Having to ford the Bow River seems to deter some people from coming to explore Hector Lake.
Many reviewers have commented that they had the lake to themselves as was virtually the case for us. Additionally, there are a couple of canoes at the edge of the lake (condition unknown) for those paddlers who just want to pack a paddle and PFD and get out on the water.
The Trail In
This trail doesn’t tease you at all; as soon as we rounded the first corner from the pullout it was clear that this would be a gnarly journey. Tree roots, rocks, stumps, mud, log foot bridges, and hairpin corners all offered challenges we were faced to navigate with long touring kayaks in tow.
Simon “The Trail Blazer” moved at a swift pace down and truly tested out the boat cart he was using. Within the first kilometer his wheels were done for and ditched in the trees to be picked up on the return trip. Simon pushed on to the river crossing.
Being the senior member of this mission with clearly too much gear, I was thankful for Simon’s support as he continued to help me navigate along this tough slugging trail.
Crossing the Bow River, we found the water was warmer than expected. While the flow was still swift and care was needed, the crossing went smoothly.
Once on the other side of the river I pressed on with my “premium boat cart” that should withstand the torture test on this trail. With me in the lead, Simon heard what sounded like a twig snapping but in actuality it was my boat cart meeting the same fate as Simon’s. We pressed on, pulling our two forgiving rotomold Dagger Stratos kayaks along the trail using a long strap as a shoulder harness and made it to the put in on the edge of Hector Lake.
Hector Lake
The first glimpse of the lake was quite stunning and tranquil. The water was a pristine gem-like turquoise colour. Mountain lakes are often notorious for windy conditions but not today.
Hector was smooth as glass and exceptionally reflective of the surroundings. We paddled up the centre of the lake to the north end taking in the grandeur of the Waputik peaks on the west side of the lake. We paddled peacefully past a majestic cliff face that stretched right down to the water’s edge and is a prominent feature that can be seen from almost anywhere on the lake. The kayaks sliced through the calm water with only the sound of our paddle strokes.
The Glacial Waterfall
After reaching the north end of the lake we had a bit of lunch then headed off for a walk to see the glacier and waterfall around the corner.
We followed the creek upstream and around the corner to reveal an exquisite blue tinted massive glacier filled with deep scaring crevasses. The water melting off the glacier formed into two large and distinct waterfalls that tumbled down over the edge of cliff faces to feed the rushing creek and eventually the Hector Lake itself.
The Journey Out
We began our trip back to the put in, enjoying time on the water and mindfully preparing for the trip back up out of the valley following the same trail we came in on that, at least for me, had left my mind while out paddling this stellar mountain lake.
Again, Simon took the lead and after reaching the truck at the pull out in record time, returned to help me finish the last section of the trail.
The lessons this trip offered relate to packing lighter and smarter and knowing that there is a limit to what a boat cart can endure.
Simon and I had an awesome day paddling together and enjoying the serene majestic surroundings we were in. It’s great to find time to let go of all the tension of life. When you are out on the water in such a fantastic location, life’s stressors melt away with ease.
Check out Hector Lake for a superb paddling spot. Take a craft that will be easy to carry (SUP or Inflatable Kayak would be good options) While it may not be the trip for every paddler, it was a trip that I found well worth the effort! Thanks Simon!!
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Bryan Hume
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